Categories
Food

Kedai Kopi Bara, Bandung: Centrally Located Nongkrong Spot

If you’re looking for a place to nongkrong in Bandung that is both modern and old school at the same time, look no further than Kedai Kopi Bara on Jalan Cibadak.

Located in an colonial building, Kedai Kopi Bara has been given a facelift that brings it into the 21st century. Lots of handmade wooden furniture, a couple of couches and lots of bright natural night make it feel quite modern.There’s a constant stream of the latest music playing, fast free wifi and a few books to make the place great for hanging out in.We’ve tried a range of things here and the coffee is top notch. Yes, it does compare with the best in Bandung. Susan likes green tea lattes and the iced one here is pretty much like it is everywhere.

They do a small selection of food here, but last time we visited, the kitchen wasn’t open.We find it interesting that the coffee shop isn’t that busy. Where is everyone? This is one of the better coffee shops in Bandung and it’s virtually empty!The great coffee, relaxing ambience and decent food selection make this one of our favourite nongkrong spots in Bandung. Let’s hope they get enough customers to make keeping the business going worthwhile.

Kedai Kopi Bara
Jalan Cibadak 237, Bandung
Opening Hours: daily 07:30 – 22:00
Cappuccino: Rp25.500
Iced Thai Green Tea: Rp15.000

Categories
Food

Railway Coffee Station, Bandung: Good Coffee Near Bandung Train Station

New for 2016, Railway Coffee Station is one of the most centrally located coffee shops in all of Bandung. Located on Jalan Kebon Jukut 17 just next to Kartika Sari, it’s convenient if you’re looking for oleh-oleh and a coffee!

The coffee here is predictably good. But that’s expected in Bandung these days. If your coffee isn’t fantastic, don’t even bother opening. They’re using coffee from sfroastery here — a great little coffee shop which we really like as well.Prices here are spot on, we think. They’re at the lower end of specialty coffee prices in Bandung and that should encourage more people to visit.This place doesn’t feel like a ruko and that is a major positive. The inside is decorated with wood and metal furniture, large white tiles and a polished concrete floor. The coffee machine is a thing of beauty.For smokers or those who simply prefer the steamy outdoor temperatures, there are a few outdoor seats which are pretty good. We’re not sure how the air-conditioning compressor units on the wall outside will impact on guest comfort, but we suspect they will make it even hotter on at least a couple of the tables as they pump hot air into covered area.We really like the murals on the wall, the wifi is fast (20mb/5mb) and the staff pleasant. A worthy new addition to the Bandung coffee and nongkrong scene.

Railway Coffee Station
Jalan Kebon Jukut 17, Bandung
Opening Hours: Mon-Thu 09:00 – 22:00; Fri-Sat 09:00 – 23:00
Cappuccino: Rp23.000
Ice Lychee Tea: Rp28.000

Categories
Food

Old Ben’s Garage & Coffee, Bandung: Does it Live up to Expectations?

Old Ben’s has been around for a little while now and we finally just got around to visiting it. And we were impressed.

The building looks like a small ruko/garage and inside there are about 6 tables inside with a few lounges and stools to complement the seating arrangement.Inside Old Ben'sDesign-wise, the interior is modern and fresh, but not wildly different to the style of most modern cafes in Bandung. In other words, it’s nice, but it won’t win any design awards.

We ordered a double shot cappuccino, baked eggs (they call it braised eggs) and croquet Monsieur. The food was good, but it doesn’t stand out from the crowd. The croque Monsieur was as expected — a ham & cheese sandwich with bechamel sauce and nicely dressed side salad.The baked eggs were a little insubstantial for our tastes and needed something a little more bitey inside like chunks of chorizo or even potato. This is the problem with baked eggs. They can often leave you feeling hungry if they aren’t filled with chunky bits inside. The flavour was nice though.The cappuccino was super strong which to be honest was a little unexpected. We often find it difficult to know how strong a coffee is going to be in Bandung, so we generally like to order a double shot. The coffee in Old Ben’s is strong and we are OK with that!The orange juice wasn’t very good to be honest. We actually haven’t had a good orange juice in Bandung, so we have to rate this orange juice as standard only. The only way to make it better is to import better oranges and that is obviously too expensive for Bandung cafes.So all in all we do like Old Ben’s. It’s certainly a place we’ll be coming back to again when we’re in the Setra Sari area.

Old Ben’s Garage & Coffee
Jalan Terusan Prof. DR. Sutami No.23
Opening Hours: setiap hari jam 08:00 – 22:00
Drinks: Cappuccino double shot Rp33.000; Sunkist Rp30.000
Food: Ben’s Childhood Breakfast (baked eggs) Rp50.000Croque Monsieur Rp50.000

Categories
Food

Kopi Kodok, Bandung: Another Manual Brew Joint to Add to the List

Kopi Kodok is a warung kopi created to cater to the same sort of crowd as Warkop Modjok and the old Armor Coffee in Tahura. A large wooden building that looks like it might blow over in the next storm.

Around the building are gardens with solid wood chairs and tables, a few umbrellas and plenty of murals for taking selfies in front of.The murals are actually one of the favourite spots in the whole place and we saw quite a lot people with their tongsis grabbing that perfect shot.This is a manual brew coffee shop, so don’t expect to get a proper cappuccino or other Espresso based drink. But do expect to get Turkish coffee, Vietnam drip, V60 and all the other manual brewing methods.We tried a few drinks here and were quite happy with the quality. But this place is not just about the drinks.It’s about nongkrong. And Kopi Kodok is a perfect place for nongkrong with its pleasant garden area, rural setting and natural wooden furniture. And because of the altitude of this place, it’s certainly a few degrees cooler than the central parts of Bandung.You can smoke anywhere here basically because there is fresh air everywhere. Even inside it’s fine because there is always a cross breeze.

An assortment of cemilan is served here and wifi is not available.Kopi Kodok is the new hip place in Bandung. Come here before it’s overrun by the masses!

Kopi Kodok
Jalan Sersan Bajuri 54, Bandung
Instagram: @kopikodok
Opening Hours: daily 08:00 – 22:00
Espresso (ibrik): Rp10.000
Single origin Arabica: Rp25.000
Milk tea: Rp20.000
Bala-bala: Rp15.000
Cireng: Rp15.000

Categories
Food

Armor Kopi Garden, Bandung: A Sensational Place to Hang Out and Drink Coffee

Some of you might remember the original Kopi Armor located just inside Taman Hutan Raya. And you might also remember that it had to close down over legal difficulties related to government bureaucracy.

Well, the owners already owned another coffee shop called Armor Kopi Garden, but it was sort of like a hidden secret. So when the main Kopi Armor closed down in October 2016, the owners decided to encourage their customers to visit Armor Kopi Garden, just 300m up the road.Armor Kopi Garden has a massive car parking space out the front which leads up to a familiar wooden building. The building looks similar to the one at TAHURA, but it’s actually a different building. The original TAHURA building has been disassembled and moved to a location nearby.The drinks and snacks at Armor Kopi Garden are just as you remember them at Kopi Armor. Lots of manual brew coffee in both arabica and robusta, lots of snacks such as pisang goreng and roasted beans packed for you to take home.We really like the layout of Armor Kopi Garden as it really lends itself to endless nongkrong. A cool open air veranda and a cozy indoor area: it just is perfect for nongkrong.Prices here aren’t as cheap as somewhere like Warkop Modjok, but they’re not as expensive as modern coffee shops like Noah’s Barn. The cheapest coffee is still Rp10.000, but when you add fresh milk, prices do go up steeply. And that’s normal.

Drink your coffee strong and black — much cheaper.Armor Kopi Garden is in our opinion every bit as good as the previous Armor Kopi in TAHURA. Sure, there are no pine trees here, but you do get the cool breeze, lots of plants and lots of wooden furniture in a wooden building. And great coffee.A top spot to nongkrong in Bandung.

Armor Kopi Garden
Jalan Dago Pakar Utara 46D, Bandung
Instagram: @armorkopi.bdg
Opening Hours: 10:00 – 22:00
Espresso Rox: Rp10.000
Americano: Rp20.000
Vietnam Drip: Rp20.000
Cafe Latte: Rp25.000
Roti Bakar: Rp20.000
Pisang Goreng: Rp20.000

Categories
Food

Kozi Lab, Bandung: A Cozy Place to Drink Coffee with an Understated Hipster Vibe

With so many coffee shops opening in Bandung, it’s so difficult for them to stand out from the crowd. They all generally have good coffee, they all generally have a good fitout, they all generally have free wifi and are good for nongkrong. So when we visited Kozi Lab, we expected much the same, but were pleasantly surprised to a see something a little more distinct.

What makes Kozi Lab so different from other coffee shops in Bandung is that it’s in a unique location, the people who visit are artists and this makes the atmosphere unique in Bandung.Kozi Lab drink coffee in a warehouse in BandungKozi Lab is tucked deep inside a series of old military warehouses next to a bunch of other art focused shops such as design studios and fashion designers. It’s so deep inside these warehouses that it’s actually quite difficult to find.Inside-Kozi-LabOur best advice is to drive through a small gate and head towards the back of the property. There you will find a warehouse with a bunch of cars and motorbikes parked out the front. Enter this warehouse and have a walk around. You will stumble upon the coffee shop! There is no other way to describe where it is!The coffee we had was good as is usually the case now in Bandung. To compare it in quality to other places in Bandung is difficult because the standard now is so high.

So we really love this place. Kozi Lab is a place we’ll be glad to go back to over and over again. We just hope it doesn’t turn into a typical hipster place. As at this time, we don’t feel that it is too hipster. It has a nice funky, organic vibe that hasn’t been invaded by the fake artistic crowd. Awesome.Coffee in KoziLab-Bandung

Kozi Lab
Jalan Gudang Selatan 22, Bandung (go through the arched driveway and head towards the warehouses in the middle of the property. There will be lots of cars and motorbikes parked out the front)
kozilab.com

Instagram: @kozi.lab
Opening Hours: daily 09:00 – 21:00
Magic: Rp22.000

Categories
Food

Old Bike Coffee & Eatery, Bandung: Old Bikes, New Cafe

New in late 2016, Old Bike Coffee & Eatery is a modern coffee shop on Jalan Surya Sumantri serving great coffee at a friendly price.

We complain a lot about coffee prices in Indonesia. You can get a specialty coffee from Yellow Truck for Rp18.000 and the same one from Common Grounds for about Rp47.000. And the difference in quality isn’t that great.At Old Bike, they’ve chosen to price their coffees at the lower end of the range with a magic (double shot ristretto with milk) only costing Rp20.000. That’s an absolute bargain.But of course it’s not all just about price. Quality is important too and we were very happy with our coffees at Old Bike. The magic was strong and punchy and the flat white slightly more milky, but still quite strong.The fitout here is interesting. They have a really large ruko to play with and they’ve done a good job.

Simple tiled floors, wood and metal furniture and brushed concrete walls. We found it to be a little noisy because of echoing, but that’s something they should be able to fix quite easily with some pictures on the walls.Free wifi is also provided and you will always find a seat because it is so big. A good new coffee shop in Bandung.

Old Bike Coffee & Eatery
Jalan Surya Sumantri 53B, Bandung
(022) 8777 6477
Instagram: @oldbikecoffee
Opening Hours: daily 09:00 – 23:00 except Saturday 09:00 – 01:00
Magic: Rp20.000
Flat White: Rp23.000

Categories
Food

Kopi Kelenteng, Bandung: Fantastic Coffee Across from the Temple

Located in the Chinese area of Bandung, the aptly named Kopi Kelenteng is a kopitiam style coffee shop offering manual brew, espresso and kopitiam style coffee. And we love it.

The thing with coffee shops in Bandung is that they all start to feel the same. Wood, industrial fittings, bags of Proud Mary coffee behind the counter. What started as an original theme by Noah’s Barn has been copied to death by others. And Kopi Kelenteng well and truly breaks that mould.Pintu Depan Kopi KelentengWhat we really love about the shop itself is that it’s not in a ruko. I hate rukos because the shape is always the same. Boring! The no-ruko aspect means that the cafe has an interesting shape to it. It’s a small space with only a few tables, a dedicated smoking area and the tiniest of kitchens.Bagian Dalam Kopi Kelenteng BandungThe menu is simple. Lots of toast, nasi goreng and other cemilan. The coffee range is large because they brew in lots of different ways. The magic we tried was spot on. Strong flavour, well-textured milk and looked good.Magic Di Kopi Kelenteng BandungThe teh tarik was similar to what we know and expect in Malaysia although we’d be happy to see a bit more froth.Toast Di Kopi KelentengSo what don’t we like about Kopi Kelenteng? Not a lot! We would like to see a few extra dishes served such as lontong kare or other simple dishes you might see in a kopitiam. But other than that, Kopi Kelenteng is a damn fine example of what a simple coffee shop should be.Area Smoking Di Kopi KelentengTop marks. Check it out if you can.

Kopi Kelenteng
Jalan Kelenteng 26, Bandung
Opening Hours: daily 07:00 – 22:00, weekends until 23:00
Toast: Rp12.000 – 18.000
Nasi goreng: Rp22.000 – 28.000

Kopi: Rp15.000 – 25.000
Teh Tarik: Rp15.000
Milo Dinosaur: Rp20.000

Categories
Chile

Visiting San Pedro de Atacama Independently – No Need to Join Tours!

When I first heard about San Pedro de Atacama, I immediately thought back to all the road trips I’ve done in Australia where being totally free in all that open space is what it’s all about. And I knew I wanted that freedom when visiting San Pedro de Atacama which essentially meant I didn’t want to take tours.

Most blog posts I read spoke of how you can take this tour and that and it’s all relatively cheap and easy. And that’s true. But if you’re a person who values freedom and tries to avoid crowds, you simply have to try and visit the Atacama in a different way.san pedro de atacama vicuna on the roadI hired a car for 4 days and it was the best decision, but not everything went as planned and I would have done a couple of things differently if I knew what was going to happen.

Hiring a Car in San Pedro de Atacama

The first thing you need to know is that people tend to hire their cars in the large town of Calama rather than San Pedro de Atacama. Calama is 100km and 1hr from San Pedro and it’s where you’ll arrive by bus or plane as it’s fairly major hub.

I checked quite a few rental car companies as well as Holiday Autos (they’re usually really cool as all terms and conditions are laid out and they usually include insurance) and ended up booking with Budget at Calama airport via Holiday Autos because it was cheaper that going directly with Budget. I purposely chose not to purchase extra insurance as I always do, but I kind of regret that now as I’ll explain later.san pedro de atacama car rentalA lot of forums I read stated that you absolutely have to get a 4wd vehicle as 2wd sedans just can’t do these roads. I got a small 2wd car and it was perfect for visiting Laguna Tebinquiche, Laguna Chaxa and Lagunas Miscanti & Miñiques. I also tried to visit Salar de Tara, but was driven back by an immense sand storm which threatened to sandblast the paint on the car to bare metal. At an altitude of about 4800m, I decided to turn the car around as the wind was moving faster than the car and the car was travelling at 100km/h.

It was scary, intense and something even a 4wd wouldn’t cope with. If the weather had been better, a 4wd would probably have been a wise choice because this particular route requires off road travel, even though it’s mild.san pedro de atacama flamingoes flyingThe other place I wanted to visit was the geyser, but I just didn’t think I should put the small car through the pain of travelling along that treacherous road. Again, if you must visit the geyser independently, hire a 4wd. If you don’t have enough money for a 4wd, that’s ok. Just visit the lagunas I visited and you will love it.

The Incident

After visiting Lagunas Tebinquiche & Chaxa, I decided to make a loop around the Salar. Why? Because up until that point the dirt roads had been really quite good. So I commenced the massive journey around the Salar and it was a poor poor decision. The first problem was that the road deteriorated quite a lot when I got to the other side of the Salar. The road was filled with larger rocks and even though I was driving fast, the car was burning through petrol. This was probably due in part to me having a flat tyre for about 100km that I didn’t know about. Eep!

After I got onto the main road, I smashed into a large pot hole (pictured: more like a crater — seriously) and the wheel with the flat tyre buckled. So that night and the next day were stress filled days of trying to get either a replacement wheel (really expensive because it was a custom alloy wheel) or get the wheel repaired.massive pot hole san pedro de atacamaAfter visiting about 5 shops, I finally found someone who said he would attempt to repair the wheel. 20,000 pesos later and I was on my way. That day was wasted and Budget refused to help fix the wheel. They just insisted it was my responsibility which sucks really… I would have appreciated them facilitating the repair and me paying for it, but that didn’t happen.

If I had insurance with them, I’m not sure they would have treated me any differently. The only thing different would be that they wouldn’t charge me for the replacement wheel if I brought the car back with the wheel broken AT THE END OF THE RENTAL. Which is no help when you need the car fixed.san pedro de atacama milky wayWhatever the case, I kind of wished I had insurance at that time because the potential cost for me was massive. Also, the sand storm incident was scary and insurance would have eased my mind a little. I’m not a big advocate for car insurance generally, but I think the conditions in the Atacama can be so extreme that it’s wise to get insurance even though it’s expensive.

Check the current price of rentals on Holiday Autos.

Cost of Petrol/Gasoline in San Pedro de Atacama

We had read that the price of petrol in San Pedro de Atacama was ridiculously high because there is only one petrol station. Not true! The price of petrol in San Pedro de Atacama is the same as anywhere else.san pedro de atacama vicunas

How to know where to go

So how did I know where to go in the Atacama? Well, everything is signposted so well and the tourists maps are actually quite good. On top of that, most of the roads are paved and very good and most of the dirt roads are quite flat. There were a few dirt roads which were really rutted, but they were no problem for any car – just take it really slowly.map of san pedro de atacama

Where to stay in San Pedro de Atacama

We stayed at a lovely place called Hostal Desert. Some of the complaints I read online talked about how far from the centre of town it is — a 15 minute walk. But the hostal was so amazing that we didn’t care about the distance from town particularly because we cooked most of our meals in their fully equipped kitchen.san pedro de atacama flamingoes flyingThe one night we ate pizza in town we drove. No problem! In fact, I didn’t really like the vibe in the centre of town and I’m glad we stayed a little bit out of the centre. Too many hippies, overly confident guide types and touristy shops and restaurants where prices are exorbitant.san pedro de atacama lagunaI paid $65 per night at Hostal Desert which included a pretty good breakfast –> Check the current price on Agoda or Booking.com

I really enjoyed my time in San Pedro de Atacama. It’s such an otherworldly place and it’s this uniqueness that makes a trip so incredible. I really loved travelling there independently and renting a car. Made the whole place that much more special.

Any questions? Let me know!

Categories
Sumatra

Things to do in Pagar Alam, South Sumatra, Indonesia

A couple of weeks ago I gave a wrap of my visit to Pagar Alam including a brief list of things to do. I thought I’d expand on that list and give a bit more detail on these things to do as Pagar Alam really is worth exploring.

1. Gunung Dempo

Gunung Dempo is ever present on the skyline of Pagar Alam. No matter where you go, you can see this 3150m tall volcano tower above the surrounding countryside. And the cool thing about Gunung Dempo is that you can climb it!

Gunung DempoClimbing it really requires a guide and you can either do it as an overnight hike or a one day hike. The overnight hike starts during the middle of the day and ends in the middle of the next with no night hiking required.

The one day hike requires hiking to start at about 2am in order to get a good view of sunrise. The descent ends at about midday and is very difficult. The practicalities of the hike can be read here and guides can be arranged from any of the hotels in town.

If you’re not interested in hiking, you can also get a great sunrise from a lookout half way up Gunung Dempo that is accessible by car or motorbike. Renting a motorbike is the cheapest way to do this, but a car and driver can be rented from most hotels as well.

Check this map for the location of the lookout.

2. Tea Plantations

Pagar Alam Tea PickersThe tea plantations of Pagar Alam line the slopes of Gunung Dempo. BESH hotel actually sits right in the middle of the plantations as do a number of other hotels. BESH at this stage is the only one bookable online.

To get to the tea plantations, simply drive towards the Gunung Dempo lookout mentioned in the point above. Along this road, you will be driving right through the tea plantations. The views are incredible and there are often people picking the leaves. This means there are great opportunities for photos.

3. Waterfalls

There are said to be over 80 waterfalls to visit in and around Pagar Alam, but really disappointingly the information on these waterfalls is a tightly guarded secret. I think I remember seeing a map of them on a presentation given by some consultants when I was in town, but this is useless. Unless tourists can get their hands on these maps, waterfalls are going to be a tough sell in Pagar Alam.

Luckily, I was taken to 3 waterfalls when I was there and can provide details on how to get there.

7 Memories Waterfall (Cughup Tujuh Kenangan)

Pagar Alam WaterfallCughup Tujuh Kenangan is a large waterfall which is a short but steep hike from the parking area. It’s a good place for a swim and you’ll be the only visitor if you come on a weekday. There is no official entry fee, but because the path to the waterfall goes through private property, you will need to give some cigarette money to the local people. Rp10.000 per person should be enough.

Bowl Waterfall (Cughup Mangkok)

Pagar Alam WaterfallCughup Mangkok is a pummelling waterfall which barrels out of the forest into a large pool. It’s an ideal place for a swim and you can even test your swimming skills under the actual waterfall. I didn’t get a chance to go for a swim here, but the location is set up for swimming… so yeah, it’s perfect for that really.

Green Paradise

Green Paradise isn’t really a waterfall location per se… well there is a waterfall there, but you mainly go here to swim in the water which comes directly from a spring underground. The water is so clean and pure that there is even a drinking water bottling plant nearby.

Pagar Alam Kids PlayingWhen I was there there was a group of kids jumping off rocks into the pool and generally having a great old time. A top place for a swim! A small entry fee is payable at the front. Rp5.000 from memory.

4. Megaliths

So the megaliths around Pagar Alam are on of the big selling points of tourism in the region. Now, megaliths are quite a niche attractions as some people just aren’t interested in this sort of history. But if you are, the megaliths of Pagar Alam are awesome.

Many of the megaliths are between 2,000 and 4,000 years old and are located in the middle of ricefields. Unfortunately, maps of the megaliths are hard to come by and visiting on your own is a little difficult. One megalith that I do remember the location of is here.

5. Hotsprings

I really loved these hotsprings and wish I had more time to enjoy them. Located about 30km from the centre of Pagar Alam, a scenic motorbike or car ride is required to get there. And really, the scenery along the way is stunning and worth the ride alone.

The hotsprings are odd. The hot water bubbles up from a river bed meaning that it immediately mixes in with the cold river water. This is great because at its source, the water is incredibly hot. So hot that you can cook an egg in it. Down stream from the source of the hot water you can just laze around and soak in the warm water.

A small fee is required to enter the area mainly because the local village paid for the concrete path out of their own money (apparently).

6. Old Church

If you’ve gone to the hotsprings, you may as well visit Gereja Santo Mikael or St. Michael’s Church. Built back in 1938 to replace an earlier church, it represents the strength of Catholicism in the village which arrived in the 1800s. Incredibly, Dutch missionaries were living in this remote area since the 1800s — it seems they were everywhere!

So there you have it. That’s my pick of places to visit in Pagar Alam. They’re all pretty cool places and can easily be visited over the course of two days. Definitely worth a visit, especially if you’re doing an overland trip through Sumatra.